Kison



` MPETERS. PHOTD-LITHOGRAPHER, WASHINGTON, D C.

WILLIAM HENRY MORRISON, OF NOTTINGHAM, ENGLAND.

MACHINE FOR MANUFACTURING BONNET AND CAP FRONTS', &c.

Specification of Letters :Patent No. 25,84*?, datedOctober 18, 1859.

To all :whom fit `may concern.'

Be it;known that yI, WILLIAM HENRY MOR- msoN, of Nottingham,manufacturer, a subject `of the Queen of Great Britain, have in- ;ventedor discovered new and useful Improvements in Means or ApparatusE1nployed inthe-Manufacture of` Bonnet and Gap Fronts, ]3.uches,.andSuch Like Artiicles 4oflwillinery; and I, the said l/VILLIAM HENRYMORRISON, do hereby declare the nature ofthe said invention and-in whatmanner thesame is to be performed to be particularly described andascertained in and by the followingvstatement thereofthat is to say:

The improvements relate to means ofA folding goffered .or fiuted lace.or net and-for the application to .the backor` folded partthereof`of-ibands 4or tapes.. The band ortape,-

`gummed or otherwise cemented, isfirstiplaced the foot of the operatorvin A,effecting some of over a groove in the table and between a pair ofslidingzbars, in position for the edge of a Ablade or knife, acting as apresser, to come down thereon as operated by a `treadle and give acrease `or fold thereto.v Above these bars there is a pair of slidingplates, which have a tendency to approach by spring or other pressure towithin a short distance of each other, but are capable of being causedrto separateas required by the actionof a'treadle, and so soon as thetape is correctly laid .over the groove these plates, which had by .the`action of the treadle been kept back for .the purpose, .are allowed toapproach each other, by which they prevent the .tape rising with :theknife. The goered or fluted lace =is then placed on this `pair ofsliding platesand between other adjustable bars Aor straight edges whichare capable of simultaneous motion when operated by a treadle, so as tolay the lace luniformly over the band or tape, and when the lace or netis thus adjusted with thewcenter of the width thereofover such slit theknife edge isagain caused-to descend .by the action ofthetreadle, so asto cause such lace or net to be folded with theuouter edges projectinguniformly upward and the foldededge to come on to the band :or tape,`when the sliding bars between the supporting plates and the table, andwhich are capable also of being s1- Inultaneously Vacted upon by a-treadle, are caused to pinch :between them the lace or net thusfolded'with the band or tape thereon.

The knife edge acting` as a presser is then allowed to rise -out of theway, and by the action of the .treadle these bars between .the

supporting plates yand the table are again caused to pinch the band ortape on to the folded edge of the lace or net. Butthat .the nature ofthese my improvements andthe means which I adopt may be more fullyunderstood I will proceed to describe the means pursuedby me, aided;bythe accompanying drawings, inthe various gures of which the same lettersare employed to indicate like parts wherever they occur.

Figure lshows Va .front view, Fig` 2 an end view, and Fig. 3 aplanofapparatus according to my invention. Other figures show some oftheparts in the .different positions assumed during operation.

a, a is the main framing, Z1 the table. c, Z and e are treadles :to belactedupon .by

the movements of the parts of the apparatus.

The band or tape to Ybe :appliedto the folded part ofthe gofteredoriuted lace or other fabric, after being cut the length desired, hasapplied to it, as is well understood, gum `or other. adhesive cement by:which to .cause Vit to adhere to such lace or other fabric, or whensuch fabric has previously been dressed `by the aid of starch or 'otherglutinous matterv simplyV .clear water may be used. It `is then creased`or partially folded length-wise, andv in that state it is`.pplacedover, and partly between .the plates j', f, which haverbeenpreviously drawn asunder by the .operator acting on the treadle c, and.also over the groove i in the` table ZJ, as indicated by red line inthe diagram, Fig. 4, in position for the lower .edge of a blade y', whenbrought downward,.to press the band7 or piece of tape with the foldededge toward the groove f, and then by releasingY the treadle 0 theplates f, f will,l,by the spring pressure applied 4to them,simultaneouslyV approacheach other, .as indicated by Fig. 5.

The blade is `held by its endin position yet: so as to be capable ofsliding vertically on stationary guides a', a, and it is borne with atendency upward by -means of the springs of india rubber y, y", whilethedowntreadle :acted upon by. the foot and .connected todthe blade orknife by suitable bands or ro s.

The plates f, f are by preference movable and are borne with a tendencyfor them to approach each other by means of springs f', 7", connected attheir ends to studs projecting from lever arms f2 f2, which are affixedto the axes f3 and at their upper ends pass into openings formed inprojections from the plates acting with a tendency to draw them towardeach other, and these plates f, f are drawn with a tendency to separatefrom each other by means of the treadle c, which by means of the linksor wires f4, f4 is connected to the arms 75,7, also aflixed to the axesf3, by which when the outer end c of the treadle c is depressed thelates or bars f will be caused to separate from each other. The band ortape having been thus passed through the opening between the inner edgesof the plates f, 7 and between the bars g, g, the edges of such bandwill separate somewhat, so as to come under the plates f, 7, which willthen serve to prevent the band or tape from rising with the blade j whenthat blade is permitted to rise by the withdrawal therefrom. of thehands of the operator, as indicated by the diagram Fig. 6, which figurealso shows the next stage of the o erations, when the length of goeredor uted lace or other fabric (indicated by the yellow line) to which theband is to be applied is placed on the sliding plates f, 7", and betweenthe bars or straight edges L, z, acting as gages, which bars h, Zz, areadjustable, as well as being capable of a simultaneous motion towardeach other when operated by the treadle d. The object of thissimultaneous motion of the bars h, 71, toward each other is to lay thefluted lace or other fabric equally over the opening formed between theplates 7, f and the band or tape. In order to eect this the bars 71.,71, have a tendency to separate from each other by means of the spring hacting upon the arm h2, aflixed t0 the axis 72,3, upon which, at eachend of the machine, is aiiixed a lever h4, the opposite ends of whichare by links h5 connected to levers 71,, h6, the lower ends of whichturn upon fixed centers hl, while the upper ends receive pins projectingfrom the ends of the bars h, and the treadle d is caused to draw thebars h, h toward each other by means of the link or wire its, one end ofwhich is attached to the treadle CZ while the other end is attached tothe arm h2, aflixed on the axis h3. When the liuted or goifered lace orother fabric is thus adjusted with the center of the width thereof overthe opening between the plates f, f, the blade j is again caused todescend, so as to cause such lace or other fabric to be folded with theouter edges projecting uniformly upward and with the folded e ges laidon to or within the band or tape, as indicated by the diagram Fig. 7,when other bars g, g will be acted upon. These bars g, g are connectedby pin points to the upper ends of levers g1 at each end of the machineand turn upon centers of motion g2, while their lower ends are capableof being acted upon by a cam or tappets g3, affixed to the axis 9*.There are springs g5, one end of which is affixed to the frame a, whilethe other ends thereof are attached to the levers g', with a tendency tokeep the bars g separated. And when the parts have been brought into theposition as described in respect of Fig. 7 the treadle e is operatedupon, by which the link gT, attached at one end thereto and at the otherend to the arm g, aixed to the axis g4, will cause that axis to make apartial rotation, by which the cam or tappets g3 thereon will be broughtto act on the lower ends of the levers g to cause the bars g to approacheach other and thereby pinch between them the lace or net folded withthe tape thereon, as indicated by F ig. 8.

gs is a spring attached to the lever g6 to pull the axis gt into itsformer position when the treadle e is released by the operator.

In most cases the band or tape will be found suiiiciently secured to thelace or other fabric; but if desired the blade j may be withdrawn andthe bars g, g again pinched thereon.

Z Z are levers turning upon centers of motion Z, carried by the bar y',to act as stops to adjust the depth of motion of the bar j. When it isrequired for these stops to act, the operator depresses the ends Z2 ofthe lever Z toward the bar or blade y', when the lower ends of suchlevers Z will be moved slightly outward, in position to come on to theupper ends of the set screws m and thereby prevent the edge of the bladej descending quite to the bottom of the groove in the table, as thatblade will be capable of doing when such levers Z are not thus actedupon.

I would here state that, although in the description given of theworking of apparatus accordin to my invention I have only mentionedgoflered fabric such as used for ladies7 cap and bonnet fronts,apparatus constructed according to the improvements is equallyapplicable in other cases where it is desired to apply bands or tapes ofsimilar character in other articles of millinery. And in some cases inplace of the band being applied to the folded fabric in the machine Ionly fold such fabric in the manner described in the machine, so that itmay be ready to receive a band if desired, and apply such bandseparately afterward.

Having thus described the nature of my said invention and the meanswhich I adopt in carrying the same into eHect, I would have itunderstood that I do not confine myployed in the manufacture of bonnetand cap fronts, ruches, and such like articles of millinery.

In testimony whereof I have signed my 15 name to this specificationbefore tWo sub scribing Witnesses.

W. H. MORRISON.

Witnesses WILLIAM BRooKEs, JAS. DoNNsoN.

